I share with you the final photos of Providencia!

We had such a wonderful time, hiking, diving, and just relaxing.  In the evenings, we would watch the local boys bring their racehorses down to the beach to stretch their legs and go for a swim.  Yes, Providence horses swim.  Apparently, swimming is the best excise for their training.  Unfortunately, we missed the weekend races as we had to leave on Friday.  I supposed we will just have to return one day!

One of three restaurants on the beach.

...and who can resist a few sunset photos?

Besides diving in Providencia, we also took a hike to the island´s highest peak!  

While the sight at the top was spectacular, even better were the stories told to us by our guide.  Mr. Hawkins picked us up from our hotel in his big truck and we listened to gospel music while we drove to the trailhead. During our two hour hike, this man taught us about the brightly colored lizards, how the males are bright blue and the females are green.  He shared stories about growing up on the island as a boy and coming to the peak with his boy scout group.  Back in those days the boys would search for mermaids in the mountain streams that have now mostly dried up due to over-consumption and lack of rain.  However, he said that this doesn't seem to affect Providence boys because nowadays children hardly visit the peak because they would rather play with their cell phones and ride motorcycles. This man came from a different generation.  He comes from the one that knows impressive ways to open coconuts or how to fetch mangoes for a snack.  He knows how to hunting lizards and says he has never tasted more delicious meat. His generation knows what flour shortages on the island meant, that the general store would only sell each family one cup.   While he had some unfortunate stories to tell, the man oozed knowledge and pride for his Providence homeland.  He shared the natural splendors of his island with us while also giving us a bit of insight into the local culture.

What's that you say?  There's something in the water?  Big fish, big teeth?

I will just continue peering into sponges.  Never mind those roaming elasmobranchs.  Because there is a whole other world waiting inside your neighborhood sponge.  Take a look and you might find teeny tiny guppies, brittle stars, nudibranchs, gastropods, or yet... more sponge.  An easter egg hunt on every dive.

We had two enjoyable dives in Providencia.  It is very different to dive for fun rather than for work.  There's the guide, and the group of people, and the time limits, but you don't have to worry about carrying a bunch of tubes with you, counting creatures, or avoiding eels when working close to the reef.  It was fun.  However, again we were a bit sad to see that Caribbean, You've got an algae problem.  The stuff is everywhere.  The corals are not looking good.  There was, however, quite an abundance of big fish.  I have never dived with so many sharks.  Several times I almost bumped into one.  They seemed quite curious.  But the benthic fauna seems to be struggling.

Guppie and Brittle Star!!

That's one fine looking sponge...

turtle! 

I would just hug that sponge if he weren't so spiculey!

one fish two fish red fish blue fish...

sponge attacking coral!!

cleaner shrimp!

whelp, cya later!

What was really at the end of the trail?

Morgan's Head!  It is easy to imagine how this natural geological formation, i.e. big rock, would look like a menacing skull to privateers keen on landing on the island.  For us, the little hike in the sticky tropical heat was more than enough to entice me into the ominous waters circling the rock.  Pablo tried to warm me of the loose rocks, sharp corals, and potential difficulty of getting back onto land.  I paid little heed and found an easy-enough descent route, strapped on my mask and snorkel, and off I went.  Pablo, with a sigh, followed shortly after.

Unfortunately, the reefs around the Head did not appear to be in great health.  Algae dominates. However, we did see a few fish, sponges, and hearty coral.  Mostly, though, our little snorkel made us curious about what could be found on reefs further out from the coast... Would there be less algae thanks to less coastal pollution?  Would there be more fish?  Would there be bigger fish?  We decided to sign up for a dive the following day.

anemones but no Nemo in the Caribbean :(

If Providencia’s 14-some mile circumference is too much for you, fear not, you can scale back even further.

There is a colorful bridge off of Providencia’s northside which leads to the island of Santa Catalina.  With no roads, one path, and less houses than boats, Santa Catalina is just about as off-the-beaten path as one can find in the Caribbean.  So, naturally, we parked our scooter in downtown Providence and headed on over to Santa Catalina.  Walking around the sleepy island felt almost like trespassing in a secluded neighborhood.  People were going about their daily business of catching and cleaning fish, hanging laundry out to dry, and harvesting ripening mangos.  We continued along the wavy sidewalk path until it turned to dirt.  It loped along the coast and down to a small beach where some people were apparently learning to scuba.  We continued on and soon we found ourselves alone, in the forest.  Just us and the lizards and the path in front.  We continued.  What would we find at the end?  Buried treasure from pirates of old?  A galleon ship?  Mermaids?  All scenarios could be equally likely.