27 June 2016

Just a few days after our anniversary retreat, Pablo headed off to Hawaii for a conference and I stayed to hold down the fort. While I do think that I have coped quite well in his absence... despite cursing winter and my wood-burning stove more than once... I am excited for his return! With sharing a home, car, and professional life, we are usually together about about 95% of the time. Perhaps unlike most modern couples, we commute together, we eat three meals a day together, we cook together, we plot to kill our cat together, you get the picture. And although that can cause its own kind of strain, being apart is disorienting. There are positives... like no tools or bits of paper strewn around the house, no one to tell you to pick up your mess, quiet, the couch all to yourself... but those certainly do not out weigh the negatives. There's nothing like having your best friend by your side.

19 June 2016

We celebrated the survival of another year of marriage at the Termas de Puyehue!

We decided to treat ourselves and get away for the weekend. We indulged without guilt, warmed our bodies in the hot springs, and enjoyed the beautiful property of Puyehue.

view from the room, not too shabby!

chilean wine? pisco sour? why not both!

the old enclosure of one of the springs, the modern pools that are now visited by guests might be more convenient but they lack the rustic charm of old

horses! you know how I feel about horses :)

te amo mamor!

18 June 2016

Last weekend we went on an adventure to celebrate our second year of marriage.  Here are some snapshots from the road. 

As we passed by the iconic fundos, or large cattle farms, that are so typical in southern Chile, my mind invented stories for the generations of families that have inhabited the old German-built estates. With their shaker-siding and often colorful trim, they are a sight among the miles and miles of green. And as the volcanoes and mountains come into view, these relics of another era become more prevalent. Perhaps this part of Chile once reminded someone of a home far away, left behind to escape a war, or tyranny, or persecution. 

It is easy to imagine from the passenger side, that life in these parts has changed little in the past century. On cold winter nights, the house is heated with wood, as is the case in all of southern Chile. Perhaps an old woman is inside making cheese from her cow's milk and an old man is hunting conejo.  Even the radio provides little evidence to the contrary as the breaking news highlights the daily price of livestock. Here time moves slowly and the imagination flies. 

05 June 2016

As your world brightens, mine becomes darker.

At 40 S, the sun makes a brief appearance around nine in the morning and sets no later than eight. That is on a good day. Most days this time of year are various shades of grey.  Steely, to bluish, with massive clouds that threaten snow but never deliver. For better or for worse, the nearby coastal breezes keep our temperatures above freezing on all but the coldest mornings. The muted days, however, are nothing compared to the darkness of night. Living outside the aura of city lights, night engulfs the little glow worm that is our house. Only a small perimeter of fallen leaves, piled wood, and plants waiting for Spring can be seen from the light that leaks from our home. 

Now is the time for hibernation, baked goods, warm reds by the fire. I think that here every season challenges us. Spring is incredibly wet, summer is at times unbearably hot and dry, fall warns of winter, and winter is dark. But with the challenges come the reward, technicolor mosses and iridescent flowers, sunny days to jump in the river, crisp breezes smelling of apples, and coziness. Winter is the only season when we can actually snuggle under the covers. When the cold teaches us to appreciate warmth. When the dark allows us to revel in the light. 

15 May 2016

Reserva Yali

Today is a rainy, cold winter day, but I still have many unshared photos left from this summer to warm us up. The most beautiful beach that we went to was definitely the beach of Reserva Yali. I suppose it is so beautiful because it is so hard to get to. The beach and surrounding area are protected from litter-bugs and other miscreants. In fact, you have to make an appointment to go there. We were let in for scientific purposes. We thought we might be able to dip into the water to check on piure stocks in the area, but the exposed beach and seasonal swells, made it far too dangerous to get to snorkel. Regardless, after hours of driving to get to Yali, we enjoyed time out of the car spent walking on the beach, finding treasures left by the waves. 

The only traces of past visitors were footprints left in the sand.

The ozone hole above Chile can lead to brutal burns. This plus the frigid coastal breeze made me more than happy to cover up. My nickname on the trip was German Grandma. I embraced it socks with sandals and all!