and then we made it!  To the top of the white volcano!  We planted a Polish flag on the desolate moonscape and joked about how if I had done so with my country's flag, well, that would just be so typically American.  

We were tired when we made it to the top (how did we all climb Kilimanjaro??).  We had hiked for over an hour and a half across rough terrain in the hot, desert sun.  The summiting was steep with loose gravel, threatening a fall.  But we made it and the view at the top was spectacular and worth the effort.  There was a sunken crater on one side, and on the other, prehistoric panorama for as far as the eye could see.  We did not linger long, though, just enough time to snap a few photos and gulp our remaining stashes of water.  We knew that the sun was setting and it was a long hike back to our camp. But just how long the return would be, we did not know...

Makes Hipsters weaving friendship bracelets look pretty darn rudimentary doesn't it?

Rugs. Lots. of. rugs.  You can find any size, any color, any pattern, and it will only cost you $3,000.  Special deal for you my friend.  Be warned, if you go to Istanbul, you will be heckled.  Guys will follow you around all. day. They will try to get you to come and see their special one-of-a-kind rugs.  You will refuse.  You will make excuses.  You will try to ignore them.  Until finally, you give in.  

Walking back to your hotel after a busy day of touristing with the persistent Rug-Dealer trailing at your heels shouting about fine silk threads and ancient Turkish traditions.  Until finally you say, "fine, just a look."  Mr. Rug-Dealer is beaming.  Before you can see his goods, though, he will romance you.  Take you to the top of his rug- trafficking building so that you can see the beautiful view of Istanbul.  You will be amazed.  The view is quite spectacular.  You will thank Mr. Rug-Dealer and think, maybe he's not such a bad guy after all.  And then, after you have taken numerous priceless photographs of the surrounding splendor, he will remind you about the Rugs.  He says, "Follow me, now you will see something that will bring tears to your eyes."

You follow.  Down many flights of stairs you go.  To the basement.  Or perhaps subterranean lair.  With each passing step your subconscious screams louder maybe this isn't a good idea.  You continue the descent.  You came this far, you can't turn back now.  So you follow him down to the bottom floor.  Through the long twisting hallway.  Passing several noticeably locked doors.  And then you emerge.  Into a golden glowing room.  Floor to ceiling lie piles of the best quality money can buy.  It is hypnotic.  In your mind, you can actually hear millions of tiny threads being individually twisted. You step closer to take a better look at the goods.  They are spectacular.  Flawless.  The Dealer awakens you from your revere to present you to yet another man, stylishly dressed, olive skin, well-groomed shiny black hair, the man that can only be the Boss.  The Boss welcomes you to his home and invites you to sit awhile and admire his wares while discussing business over tea.  He explains that if you are in a Turkish household and are offered tea, you must not refuse.  What do you do?